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Thread Box:
Newb With KHS
Thread started by HANDBONE at 04.28.08 - 10:10 pm

sorry if this is a waste of thread, or too newb to help out with but yeah.

ive been riding a khs flite 100 and recently changed the stem to a threadless salsa stem. its a little smaller and shorter than the original ugly stock stem but sits WAY way too high for me, i'd bring it down lower but i hate the headset sticking out like a fucking boner. is there a way i could cut this (or shorten it) ? do i need a new fork altogether ? if a picture is needed i will post it (may have explained this poorly). i basically want the stem right at the bottom.

Tx, -Handbone

reply


Halp



HANDBONE
04.28.08 - 10:12 pm

reply


just cut the steerer on the fork if I understand you correctly.

just don't cut it too short or then you will need a new fork.



toweliesbong
04.28.08 - 10:12 pm

reply


one more question, how do i cut it ?



HANDBONE
04.28.08 - 10:13 pm

reply


hacksaw or pipe cutter.

if it's aluminum a hacksaw will do. if more likely, it's steel, then it's easier with a pipe cutter, but doable with a hacksaw.

if there is a star nut inside the steerer then remember to knock it down a little ways further if need be before cutting.

the cut doesn't have to be perfectly square, just close.



toweliesbong
04.28.08 - 10:15 pm

reply


towliesbong. thank you very much.

my mind isnt disciplined enough to sheldon brown everything.

i appreciate the halp.



HANDBONE
04.28.08 - 10:17 pm

reply


go to the kitchen or the oven or the bikerowave and ask for the Park Tools SG-6, the threadless fork steer tube saw guide. put in their vice; put the steer tube in the length that you want cut off and run the press down to lock it down. then start cutting with the hacksaw.



junkboat
04.28.08 - 10:24 pm

reply


handbone, the best way to shorten the stem, use a pipe-cutter,be sure to account for 'spacers' and additional hardware, a true cut can be accomplished, using a pipe-cutter is the best way and it requires less work also, if you can attach pics in the exploded view, it will give us a better understanding as far as the advice we can give you, i have all the tools required to do the job correctly, be very careful you don't fuck it up, ok?



eddieboyinla
04.28.08 - 10:29 pm

reply


by the way who is sheldon brown, just joking with you, most newb's have no idea about that guy, good luck.



eddieboyinla
04.28.08 - 10:31 pm

reply


ooh will do, will do.



HANDBONE
04.28.08 - 10:31 pm

reply


sheldon brown is my homeboy yo.



HANDBONE
04.28.08 - 10:32 pm

reply


lol, cool



eddieboyinla
04.28.08 - 10:32 pm

reply


alright, handled that yesterday, now i have a new set of problems.

I changed my gear ratio to 39x14 today and my lockring got stripped in mid-skid. this is the second time this has happened and i need a new rim. the peeps at the bicycle kitchen told me i need to find a skinnier cog , only catch is they dont make any that skinny anymore.
i need some advice on what kinda rim/hub/components i need for the backrim.

anybody know what i'm talkin about and where to find it ?



HANDBONE
04.30.08 - 11:16 pm

reply


side note, i dont use breaks, and only skid/skip to break.


& i tighten my cog and lockring almost everyday, so it has to be the components.



HANDBONE
04.30.08 - 11:17 pm

reply


Why would you tighten your cog and lock ring EVERYDAY?



NEWB310
04.30.08 - 11:46 pm

reply


already stripped em twice, im paranoid.



HANDBONE
04.30.08 - 11:47 pm

reply


Go across the street to Orange 20 and pick a rear Mavic cxp22 wheel and a dura ace lockring. If you tighten both the cog and lockring real good (with a chain whip) it should never come loose. Well at least mine never did.



web777
05.1.08 - 12:02 am

reply


yeah, i'm cursed with lockrings.

so im lookin at like 50 bucks ?



HANDBONE
05.1.08 - 12:05 am

reply


awesome thank y'alls.



HANDBONE
05.1.08 - 12:05 am

reply


When you buy new rims, replace the cog and lockring too. Some of the cheaper bikes, ex. Bianchi Pista, came with lockrings whose pitch is slightly off, causing the hubs to strip. This a is a known problem with the Pistas and some similarly priced bikes. Buying a better cog and lockring usually fixes this problem. But once the hub is stripped, it is pretty much done.

Another suggestion is buying a wheel that is fixed/fixed. You can run a freewheel on a fixed hub but not vice versa. And per chance you strip it again you just flip the wheel. Also make sure that the lockring is tight.



sc_nomad
05.1.08 - 12:08 am

reply


Another option is take the bike to where you bought it, if its new, and get them to warranty it. I know Bianchi has warrantied a few wheelsets, I know of at least 4 people who've done it.



sc_nomad
05.1.08 - 12:15 am

reply


SHIT i knew about the warranty and never acted on it. Maybe i can get two free new rims, im still gunna buy a fixed/fixed one though good lookin out !



HANDBONE
05.1.08 - 12:49 pm

reply


If you are tightening the thing every day, odds are good that's WHY you have stripped it. Every day, you are putting just a little more torque on the thing. I can see checking the tension every 500-1000 miles or so, but I'd do it by loosening and then re-tightening rather than simply jerking it a little tighter every time you do it.



ideasculptor
05.1.08 - 5:03 pm

reply


"You can run a freewheel on a fixed hub but not vice versa."

===
I run a fixed cog on a freewheel rim with no lockring...i don't skid so there's no problem. it's got locktight on it.



barleye
05.1.08 - 5:08 pm

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^^^^^ True but just being cautious, someone might read the post, and not read it all the way through, Then they might think it's ok, try to skid and get hurt.



sc_nomad
05.1.08 - 5:48 pm

reply


Well, Sam, the thing is, a fixed gear should naturally tighten both the lockring and the sprocket WHILE RIDING, that's the reason the threads for the lockring are reversed.

I wish more companies would go to splined or bolt on sprockets like level and such, nothing to strip.



FuzzBeast
05.1.08 - 5:54 pm

reply

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