Lubed chain, more problems.
Thread started by
bentstrider at 08.3.09 - 7:50 pm
So, I finally found that tube of Finish Line I had lying around and gave the chain the treatment it so badly deserved.
The clickety clack sounds are pretty much gone, but now I'm dealing with embarrassing chain-slippage that almost caused me to go over the bars twice today.
You know, where you throw normal power into the drive and get out of the seat, but all the downward force goes to nothing and naturally causes your body to go forward.
Anywho, I've narrowed it down to three things;
1)Chainring teeth are beginning to wear.
2)Chainrings may be getting warped to a slight degree.
3)Derailleur somehow got out of alignment.
4)The chain is probably shot to shit and the Finish Line is just prolonging the inevitable.
Anywho, I'd appreciate some comments on this before I take it down the hill for replacement parts.
As y'all know, good local shops up here are a diamond in the rough.
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1 and 2 you should be able to check visually. Is your chain loose? Too much slack? Adjusting the derailleur is pretty simple...try that and then new chain.
TheJen08.3.09 - 8:22 pm
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Yes, make sure you derailluer is in adjustment before you do anything.
How many miles on the chain and gears?
mr rollers08.3.09 - 8:25 pm
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Been using the same chain since I bought the bike back in August of '06, the cogset and chainrings I both acquired back in '07 during my wonderful OTR deployment.
Yeah, should've replaced the chain sooner, but I tend to ride everything until it blows apart.
LIKE AN F-4 Phantom over the skies of Indochina!!!!
bentstrider responding to a
comment by mr rollers
08.3.09 - 8:43 pm
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Get thee a new chain...adjust the derallieur and make minor adjustments and ride to test it. Keep the chain for a back up...
TheJen responding to a
comment by bentstrider
08.3.09 - 9:07 pm
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Don't just get a new chain or it'll still skip! You'll have to get a new casette, and likely a new front chainring too.
I had my chain for about 1 year less than you've had yours when I started to get the skip. The metal in the chain wears down over time and lengthens the chain, which in turn lengthens the space between the teeth on the chainrings. A new chain won't neatly fit on the old chainring because the teeth will be too far apart. It's kinda explained here.
http://bicycletutor.com/chain-wear/
Casettes are cheap if you don't care about weight.
wiz_vanmeter responding to a
comment by bentstrider
08.3.09 - 9:16 pm
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One thing at a time with my budget, Ryan.
My cogset still appears to be quite decent so we'll forego that for now.
The chainrings are actually riveted to the crankset, it's one of those Shimano, OEM-replacements.
If anything, I'll replace that too if I could find something within the $40-$60 range with Allen screws.
bentstrider responding to a
comment by wiz_vanmeter
08.3.09 - 9:23 pm
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Adam,
Make sure everything is adjusted and aligned correctly. Make sure there's good tension on the chain and the dérailleur. Does this slipping happen with the chain in the large chainring? Or which ring? If all checks out, then examine the chainrings. They shouldn't show hardly any wear. You'll have to google to see what a bad one looks like. Changing just the chain when the chainring is worn out is not going to do you any good. Sounds like you may have to replace both the chainring and chain. Just replacing one won't do much good. I'm sure sheldon brown has some good posts on this subject.
User108.3.09 - 9:24 pm
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Well, I did manage to shift into ring #3/low gear and have no problems whatsoever.
Of course, I rarely ever used that one.
bentstrider responding to a
comment by User1
08.3.09 - 9:29 pm
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I didnt see that it's a riveted setup. Get something on ebay if can't adjust it and resolve it.
User1 responding to a
comment by bentstrider
08.3.09 - 9:34 pm
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Nah, I'll probably be making a trip down the hill tomorrow, I'll hit up Sport Chalet in Fontucky, then Performance in Pasadena if I didn't strike gold already.
bentstrider responding to a
comment by User1
08.3.09 - 9:42 pm
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I agree with other posters: If your derailleur is adjusted properly, well, dont just replace the chain if the cassette and Chainring are nearly as old.
The reason is that drive train parts tend to wear together. This is less of a problem on a geared bike than a single speed (so without seeing the rig...).
But, for reasons many ride SS, you may find there are only a few cogs that youre actually using/shifting into... and maybe you tend to only ride in your outer chainring. In that case, youre probably wearing out cogs that are not only thinner than SS cogs (generally), but they might even be smaller (more wear).
Of course, Im just assuming this might be true in your case. But the point is still... replace the whole cassette if you have a couple of worn cogs. Let your new chain and cassette wear in together.
The chainring can get pricey, but depending on how you ride, you can easily get a stainless steel ring (last longer), without ramps, that will still shift fine... I dont know what you ride. There is so much crap out there, you can probably get it all done $60.
If anything wait til you have the dough to upgrade the drivetrain, and until then try just getting your drivetrain to function within a few usable gears.
md2 responding to a
comment by User1
08.4.09 - 10:06 am
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actually just noticed you mentioned you have riveted chainrings... that sucks
you should send a photo of your bike, that way other can tell you whether its worth putting $$$ into... you may be in a perfect position to SS your rig.. and wait until you can afford a different rig, or upgrade your existing one (if its worth it).
md2 responding to a
comment by bentstrider
08.4.09 - 10:28 am
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Thanks, but I'll stick with my folder.
This thing has been with me through Hell and back, different cities and extreme weather patterns.
I'd much rather keep it aloft piece by new piece than be like everyone else and get something that does not fold!!
bentstrider responding to a
comment by md2
08.4.09 - 11:31 am
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Well, I would address the derailleurs/shifters first.
Check the chain length. Let us know if you need help.
If all is good... take it to the shop, but if you're skeptical about the charges... dont buy, return to the forum and Im sure a bunch of people can offer advice. return to the shop with a new set of options.
Plus you might find a used folding bike for the same price it cost to fix yours (without the sentimental value of course).
Or just fix what you have and call it a day.
md2 responding to a
comment by bentstrider
08.4.09 - 11:50 am
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1st step, check chain length...
if you have a ruler...go from the center of one rivet, measure twelve inches, and it should line up exactly with a rivet 12 inches away...(so if you start with a front rivet on the plate, it should match up with a front rivet)...if the center of the rivet lines up past the 12 inch mark over 1/8"...your chain has stretched too far.
if you're lucky, you just need a new chain...(I saw the most stretched chain ever at the Oven a few months ago...the client was telling me how every time she put pressure on the crank it would slip... turns out her chain had stretched over half an inch)
if you're bringing your whole bike to the shop, have them inspect the gears both back and front...
I don't think it's your derailleurs, unless they are really rubbing against the chain...
and if your chain rings are warped, it should still take quite an offline spin to actually cause chain slippage...
chain is the cheapest to replace also!
adrian08.4.09 - 2:04 pm
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if you're bringing your whole bike to the shop, have them inspect the gears both back and front...
Skipping that, Victorville Cycles is already on my shit list and the other shops that have recently popped up in Apple Valley are swamped as well.
Since getting down the hill is temporarily out of the question, I'm going to hit up some of the sites and order a decently-priced chain.
I also found my old, Specialized crankset in the closet and it has Allen bolts.
If I could stomach it, I'll see if I could find some new rings for that.
Man, parts were easier to obtain and find when I was rolling the big boy through parts unknown.
bentstrider responding to a
comment by adrian
08.4.09 - 4:27 pm
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oh yeah, you should always replace your chain, and don't wait for that to wear out to the point of explosion...
a worn chain wears out your gears and your chainrings (which are much more expensive to replace)
if you always replace your chain before too much stretching, you can make both gears and chainrings last much longer...
adrian08.4.09 - 4:46 pm
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Well, thanks.
At least I could come here and ask questions without the risk of getting into an ass-kicking contest with the shop-boyz.
bentstrider responding to a
comment by adrian
08.4.09 - 5:18 pm
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Well, I found a killer deal on a new crankset and chain at the Nashbar website, the shipping seems quite reasonable too.
The final price of both is much cheaper than getting individual chainrings for this S-Works crank I just found in my closet.
bentstrider08.5.09 - 10:43 pm
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The new chain came in and now it's running like the day I pulled it out of the box!!!!
bentstrider08.10.09 - 8:01 pm
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thought so!
glad it worked...
keep an eye on the chain, always!
adrian08.11.09 - 12:07 pm
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Well, I spoke too soon and did not use my whole ass.
I took the bike for a 20 mile ride from Hesperia to Apple Valley and back.
I pretty much had to keep that thing in the low-speed cogs in order to maintain any form of momentum.
Anywho, I've got the new chain and single chainring attached to an old, S-Works crank.
I'm going to see if I could spring for a cog remover(I could make my own chainwhip) and switch it over with the cog from my mothballed recumbent.
One thing after another.
bentstrider responding to a
comment by adrian
08.12.09 - 12:53 am
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