Thread started by bentstrider at 12.2.07 - 9:13 pm

I recently got my Specialized, Rockhopper back from my friend who didn't quite know what to do with it.
Seeing as how budgetary constraints have priced me out of the 700c purchases for the time being, I'm going to screw around with this one.
The 7005(?)Aluminum frame is quite light, moreso than my Yellow Submersible.
I figure if I slap a 52-53T chainring onto the crankset, and get some type of flipflop hub with a fixed gear option, I figure I could crank some more speed out of it with the strength I have.
I'm also going to take off the front suspension and put a rigid fork in its place.
Trouble is, I've called the three LBS's up in this sad area, and all they have are more suspension forks(fuckin' fad, like disc brakes.).
Anyone know of another good LBS/bikerowav-ish type of place that carries 1-1/8 rigid forks for MTB's?
I just want to remake this Rockhopper as simpleton as possible.

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You may have to go online for this. You probably already know this, but in case you didn't: you'll be wanting a suspension-corrected fork, meaning it's a little longer to make up for the typical extra length of a suspension fork.



PC
12.2.07 - 9:32 pm

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I was sort of hoping I could Macguyver this thing tommorrow, in time for Tuesday-night Juggernauts.
If anything, it'll probably take 2 weeks for parts to arrive.
A "suspension-corrected" fork, eh?
I learn new things from you everyday PC.





bentstrider
12.2.07 - 10:10 pm

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For decent yet cheap stuff, Surly makes a basic suspension-corrected MTB rigid fork, as well as a flip/flop hub. Hollywood Pro carries Surly parts, although I don't know if they will have a separate fork available, as they're usually sold as frame/fork combos.

If you end up ordering online, there's lots of choices for both rigid forks (Independent Fabrication, Kona, Vicious Cycles) and flip/flop MTB hubs, although if you have vertical dropouts on your frame you might want to look into the White Industries Eno hub, which lets you adjust chain tension via a tricky concentric mechanism.

Also, you should be aware that some MTBs aren't built to accept a large front chainring (mine can only go up to 40t), so check before you decide on a specific chainring/cog setup.



angle
12.3.07 - 2:55 am

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I managed to slap a 53t on my Trek 800, but you're probably right about the Rockhopper.
I was just trying to that so that I've got somewhat of a simplified, "everyday-rider".
All the terrain-luxuries of an MTB w/the somewhat-power of a roadbike.
I'm just getting a little peeved at getting very little, maximum speed out of concentrated pedaling efforts.
Everyone on the 700's sporting 53/smallest cog are maintaining 24-28mph with what appears to be a slower cadence than what I'm doing.
38/10(?) on flatland is a pathetic max-out @22mph.



bentstrider
12.3.07 - 3:18 am

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A 38/10 gear on an MTB works out to something like 97 gear inches, which is really high. If you're spinning out, I imagine that you're most likely using a 38/18 or 38/20. For comparison, a 52/18 gear on a 700c bike is around a 78 inch gear. I have heard that a 70 inch gear is a good all-around gear for city riding on a fixed-gear bike, although I'm sure there's people who run a much heavier gear than that. Probably not higher than 90, though.

If you could manage to fit a 48/16 setup on your MTB, you'd be at around 77 gear inches, which might be high enough so you don't spin out so easily.

(Gear calculations courtesy of Sheldon Brown's Online Gear Calculator: http://sheldonbrown.com/gears/index.html)



angle
12.3.07 - 7:20 am

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